Category Archives: Walks

A sobering reminder: The retreat of the Neumayer glacier

As we approached Neumayer (and nearby Lyell) glaciers, we realised that the charts indicated we were navigating on land. The glacier front was still over a mile away, but were already several miles “inland” according to the charts made in 2001.

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8th of September, King Edward Point:

What an exciting week!! I’ve have finally started catching fish larvae; I have set up the aquarium and its up and running; I now have fish larvae happily swimming around in mesh baskets in the aquarium and some have been alive now for a few days; which has all boosted my morale. This is grand!! This is absolutely grand!! Once again, everyone said that the fish larvae would die within hours.

SANY0004Well, perhaps they haven’t been keeping fish in aquariums and ponds since they were 3. I knew one day my oddities would be useful for something 🙂 Hahaha!

My little hand-woven baskets to keep each day’s catch separate from the rest.

The only problem now is that my departure date is in two weeks’ time… Now I have to make some difficult decisions about what am I going to do: I am eager to go back home see my loved ones, I miss my people, but there may be enough funds in the project to extend my time here a few weeks… and I am now so close to at least having a go at what I came to do here; plus seeing the Antarctic spring would be a great experience: I may even get to see elephant seal bull fights and pups… everyone is talking about them here. I will have to discuss this with the rest of my work colleagues, but before I even suggest it I want to make sure there is a realistic chance of the experiment actually working. I need to make sure I can keep larvae alive for a reasonable period of time; and although I have caught larvae of three different species of fish and they will all be included in the work, I still have not captured the main target species: mackerel icefish (Champsocephalus gunnari). Two points that I need to sort out before a decision is made.

As a little pressie to myself, last Thursday I joined the rest of the staff on a trip to service all the huts on the shores of West Cumberland Bay. I had been working till very late for a few days and was originally going to stay on base weaving aquarium baskets, but decided to take the mesh and thread with me and weave on board watching the incredible scenery. It was a once in a lifetime opportunity and I couldn’t miss it. It was a beautiful blue sky day with no wind, just perfect for a boat trip.

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Spectacular photos courtesy of Rod Strachan and Hazel Woodland:

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We first visited Harpon Hut, and it was so cute! It was a tiny little wooden hut, made out of wooden scraps, painted in all colours and with little windows overlooking the breath-taking view over the bay. Very quaint. (Photos courtesy of Rod Strachan and Hazel Wood)

West Cumberland_0015Next was Carlita Bay Hut, and that was something else. That was luxury!! It was shocking, in the middle of nowhere there was this … house… with tall ceilings, real bunkbeds, and kitchentop kitchen tops. It was a real contrast to the other huts I had seen so far. (Photos courtesy of Rod Strachan and Hazel Woodland)

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DSC08879After servicing Carlita, we decided to have a look at Neumayer glacier just around the corner according to the map. But after we turned the corner, Neumayer glacier was not for several miles into the bay.

DSC08884It was a real shock to look at the boat’s GPS showing the edge of the glacier (mapped in 2001) and us: 4 miles INLAND. I have never felt a more powerful message of climate change. True, one is constantly hearing about it, about all these freak storms and draughts, and melting polar icecaps, predicted sea level rises or shortening of icefish larval stages, but I have never SEEN it first hand, so palpable… it was even intimidating.

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The sadness I felt for that glacier was later multiplied when I remembered that has happened with dozens of glaciers around South Georgia, let alone around the world. On a more positive note, the glacier was awe-inspiring and I could have stared at it for hours. (Photos courtesy of Rod Strachan and Hazel Woodland)

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West Cumberland_0016On our way back through all the beautifully sculpted icebergs I spotted an old friend: Dear Old Sea Leopard was sunbathing on an iceberg, so we stopped and became papparazzis for a while.

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Old Sea Leopard loved the attention and greeted us with a show of her not-so-pearly whites. (Photos courtesy of Rod Strachan and Hazel Woodland)

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Unfortunately I have damaged my pocket camera and I have lost all the pics from the last week … which is a bit of a bugger. I still have a couple of more cameras, but not as versatile as my supposedly nik-proof compact, so the quality of the pics will not be as good from now on, unless I am lucky enough to be able to share the pictures of amazing photographers Rod Strachan and Hazel Woodland!!! Thanks a bunch!!!

This weekend the weather has been appalling, it has snowed a tonne, and the track to Grytviken is closed. So we are stuck on base. This Saturday it was Sue’s turn to cook, and I’ve learned that when Sue’s cooking, expect something good. But this Saturday she excelled herself. She summoned all of us at the bar at 7pm, properly attired to go on holiday – Mysterious – I felt celebratory so I put on a tank top, sunglasses and had a bit of an image change.

Sue turned up dressed as an airhostess, gave us our boarding pass for KEP Airways flight

to Barbados, and Hazel and I got upgraded to first class!!! Yeay!!!  She then invited us on-board… onto the corridor!!!

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There were chairs at either side of the corridor and beautiful pictures of lovely places at either side: Haiti, Ibiza, Morocco, Ecuador, Stromboli… I wonder where she got the pictures from 😛 . We then sat on our chairs with peanut bags and had to listen to the safety speech. There were even safety lights on the floor.

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Then there was dinner, which came on plates for the us doctors on first class, and in tin trays for the rest. Hahahaha!!

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The whole effect was mindboggling! Quite a few times I caught myself thinking that I was truly on a plane… which is weird, because I hate flying. Unfortunately, there was a big massive storm in Barbados, so halfway there we had to turn back to South Georgia L. Despite the disappointment of missing our holiday in Barbados, an awesome evening was had. Sue, you are one incredible (air)hostess!!!

Finally this afternoon Sue, Dan, Rod and I we decided to brave the weather and make a snowman! Yeay!!! Only that, after a bit, we decided it wasn’t a man after all and we created: SNOWSUE!!!! Yippiyaiyay!!! It was hilarious!!! SnowSue ended up being quite voluptuous, but very pretty… you can watch a making-of SnowSue here:

30th August 2013, King Edward Point:

No progress once again. I know lots of people had told me it was going to be near to impossible and that I should not keep my hopes too high. But I, perhaps stupidly, had believed that luck would be on my side… I keep deploying traps to no avail… and this is getting very depressing. And harder to admit defeat whenever anyone asks me about the traps… So I’ll spare you my ranting.

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Last weekend was August Bank Holiday weekend, I had quite a bit of work to do, so adventures were kept to a couple of afternoons. Saturday was an unbelievably glorious day, so I skied up to Gull Lake and Brown Flats on my own. It was actually really hot, so I was down to just a T-shirt and still sweating like a pig.

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It’s a truly fascinating sensation being on your own in this environment, there is no one else but us on the island… and it’s so vast!! It’s a weird mixture of “I’m in the middle of absolute nowhere: if I shout NOTHING would hear me” and “I am the luckiest guy in the world”. And then when you’re in your own little world, you bump into someone from the station – Tara! – Amazing! After a couple of hours, I had enough of being on my own, and returned to base to find that the sauna had been put on – Yeay!!! – Being half-Swedish, I obviously love saunas!! And now I could do it properly: sauna, roll in the snow, and back in the sauna!!! Hahaha! Never done it before and it was so much fun! And then after sauna, it was my first fancy dress party at KEP!! Superheroes vs. villains! After a bit of rummaging around the fancy dress box, I put together a Sabretooth outfit.

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On Sunday, we had a visit. A plane from the Falklands military was going to do exercise and was going to show up sometime in the afternoon.

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So we went up to Brown flats with cookies to enjoy the reminder of outside civilization. It was rather weird making such a fuzz about a plane flying above us, but there are never planes above South Georgia… so it was quite an event!

Monday was a glorious day once again, but had work to do so I stayed in base. After a couple of hours I could not take it anymore and I moved my office outside: to read under the sun. And it was lovely!! So lovely that after another couple of hours I was in my swimming trunks sunbathing… in August, in South Georgia! Wonderful!!

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I actually even got a bit of a tan! – Note for Antarctic explorer wannabes: my skin is quite dark so it copes with a fair amount of sun, others at the station are not so lucky and burn even after putting factor 50. And no one wants a sunburn.

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However the most exciting thing of all must have been the return of the Pharos.

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OMG!! I had seen the excitement of everyone on station the day I arrived, but I had not understood it. It’s like a grown up version of Christmas!! Really, Pharos is like Santa: big and red and bring presents!! Presents like oranges, bananas, apples, and onions, avocados, and butternut squash… but nothing excited me more than the lettuce – Oh my dear dear, crispy, fresh, green lettuce: I had missed you!! – Nom nom nom… I was caught in the action of stuffing my face with a leaf of lettuce that had “fallen off” while being carefully inspected (by me) for bugs … and I have been here only a month and half…

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Hard at work checking all the freshies for stowaways:

Our newly restored food store: You cannot imagine my happiness at this view…..

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I was quite bemused by some of the cargo: it appears that my favourite Swedish furniture shop delivers even in South Georgia!!!!

It also brings post to everyone on base… and even I got post: Paula sent me a bag of sweets, a pot of “Smooth & Spicy” mustard, and some “Tim Yum paste”. Hihihi! Thanks a million Paula!!!! You made my day!!!

Oh, yes! On Thursday I decided to put away some large (1.2 by 2.4m) planks of plywood as I didn’t need them anymore.  So took all three of them and carried them above my head and started my way to the storing container. As I reached the corner to the container – zliiiipppp…. Kapummmm paw… papatakatakatakaaaaa…. Auuu…. – the floor around the container had frozen, I slipped on it, went flying, landed on my lower back and broke the ice with my head… it that wasn’t enough, the three planks of plywood landed right on my face…. I lied motionless sandwiched between the floor and planks of plywood for a few seconds, trying to figure out what had happened… Oooucchhh…. I was in pain, but I was actually more embarrassed and hoped that no one in the Pharos had witnessed my cartoonish fall. Admittedly, it had probably been quite funny. I peeked out of the planks; No one around; Okay, let’s get out of here. My nose was bleeding, from the outside. So I went to see Ella and Jo, who were very professional and promptly checked my head: no breaks, I’ll survive and I’ve learned another lesson: Always look where you are walking and do not carry things above your head.  My lips have swollen, and I look like I’ve just come out of a Botox op; and my nose is much wider than normal and slightly greenish, it’s kinda funny, I look like a crook. Very convenient for my planned pirate party on Saturday…

22th of August 2013, Kind Edward Point:

I am starting to lose hope here. Its past mid-august and the larvae should be out there by now, hence this week I thought I would put my all onto sampling and pull out my last resort: go deep.

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Icefish larvae are caught in trawling exercises at depths of around 100m, so I decided it was time to try sampling deep. It was going to require boating time which is expensive, that is why I waited until now to go out there. So off we went Ella, Pat and I, to deploy a line of 70m with 8 traps along the line each baited with a glow light stick.

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It was quite a weird moment when everyone on board looked at me and asked me: “So, where do we go?” – Huh? Blink, blink – I had never been in such position where I was in charge of where a scientific boat goes, and it took me a few second to react and understand that I was in charge. Mind boggling in certain ways, but it also reminded me that I am not a child anymore…. Anyway, we agreed on what seemed a suitable location.

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It was quite a feat to deploy the traps, but nothing compared to hauling them the next day!! Wow, 70m of wet line, plus 8 traps, chain and anchor ARE heavy when you have to haul them by hand! That was hard work!

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However, it was more the emotional blow that hit me, when we got back to shore and I found that the traps were mostly empty.

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There was a lonely pretty shrimp in the deepest trap and a few small crustaceans in the one at 50m. There you go, I had just scored another defeat.

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The shore traps are not fearing much better either. I’ve caught a fish egg, oddly enough. Sue is trying to convince that is a good sign… bless!!! but I remain skeptical…

I’ve had problems with the traps getting stuck in the ice as the surface freezes. Pulley systems getting ripped from the shore by high winds and wave action. Traps being blown onto the shore. Chains frozen into ice. Lights that have failed. I’ve leaned on shag pooh, have found that one wash is not enough, and now I’ve got a stinky jumper. Noup… I’m not at my highest morale level.

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Nevertheless, I had a peek onto the hits on the blog, and I was gobsmacked!! Over 600 hits and from all over the world!! THANK YOU ALL FOR FOLLOWING THE BLOG!!! The map looked amazing!!! Although, who do I know from Nepal???

Last weekend, three of the girls went on holiday to Maiviken. They left on Friday and came back on Monday, which meant that we were only four of us left on base. I thought it was going to be boring, because half the group had left, but quite the opposite. It was a bit like when the parents leave you home alone!! So we were up to a lot of mischief over in base camp: There were lots of spooking each other around, music up loud, laughs at the bar, and we invaded the luxurious Shakelton House with popcorn galore to watch “Alien Vs. Predator”!! It was quite something watching a film about aliens that it’s supposed to be in Antarctica while one IS in Antarctica… (or sort off) and then having to go out there and do the late rounds… hahaha! But we couldn’t stop laughing throughout the film: it all started with a general explosion of laughter when we saw a Magellanic penguin appearing in what was supposed to be the Antarctic Peninsula, and then it just continued on… On reflexion, it’s funny how once you’ve been removed from civilization for a while, one becomes a bit like a kid and you let yourself enjoy those really simple but magical moments…

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On Saturday Rod, Sue and I agreed to go ALL THE WAY to Maiviken to bring some “essential” supplies the girls had already run out of. The sky was covered and it had snowed a lot, so we put on some snow shoes and off we went on a nice hike up to Deadman’s Pass and to Maiviken.

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It was fascinating to see Maiviken Hut being occupied, and it instilled a strong will in me to go out on a holiday before I leave South Georgia if at all possible. On the way back, I committed another mistake: accept Rod’s dare of a race up to Deadman’s Pass IN SNOWSHOES… 

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Hahaha… it must have been hilarious to watch, but maaaannnn that was a workout!!! I was drenched and out of breath by the time we reached the top. Needless to say, I lost…. But only by a few meters!!!

13th of August 2013, King Edward Point:

We’ve just finished watching the films from the other Antarctic bases, and I must say that I am impressed with the quality of all the films!!! Wow!!! Some are really good! And some are really funny!! Bird Island have done a very impressive job indeed and I’ve given them top marks for best film! Unbelievable considering they are only 4 on base! And they didn’t even have a bath! Hahaha!!!  Many of our ideas were also used in other films, which was a bit of a disappointment… I don’t think we’ll win, but we’ve done a good job I think. There are some really good movies on the open category too: BC Rod’s “Last Rat standing” is a beautiful clip of South Georgia’s charismatic fauna (a must see for all ya penguin and seal lovers!);

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South Pole station showed some really fascinating movies of the sky from the south pole   (South Pole); but my absolute favourite is the Vostok music for everyone movie…. It sent shivers down my spine, and I’ll even admit having wet eyes by the end of it… A must see for anyone with a bit of unfrozen soul in them.

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On the sampling front things are not progressing. It’s mid-august now, and I should start capturing larvae now. I keep deploying traps off KEP pier, trying different permutations of bubbletraps, jellyfish traps at different depths, different colours of LED lights and glow sticks, have modified the design of the jellyfish traps adding more weight to the bottom to insure they stand the right way up… all to no avail so far. I keep catching lots of amphipods and shrimps and the like… but no fish larvae…. Which is starting to seriously undermine my confidence.

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On an attempt to forget my failures, last Sunday Rod and I went up to Brown Mountain, a small easily accessible peak suitable for height fearers like me. I had been warned that Rod liked rather daring experiences, but I though the hill would not be too much of a challenge. We put on some snow shoes and off we went, it was a lovely sunny day and the hike was delightful.

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I made to the top rather okay without too much trouble or knees going week. I know it was just a hill compared to the gigantic mountains around, but I was quite proud of myself. It’s not very often I go all the way up mountains, and I felt alright.IMGP5037
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Mount Sugartop (2323m high), with a name like that, even I am temped to give it a go…

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Mount Duse across King Edward Cove, dominating the BAS base (AKA home) in the middle.

After a cookie break we started the descent down the other way of the mountain, just for a change of scenery – Yeah, right! – Looking at the cliffs at either side was now making my knees go slightly weak…

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but I was happy we were just going ahead on the ridge, until there was ridge ahead no more… I cannot describe the shock I was in when I realised we had to go down that 300m or so precipice covered in icy snow…

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in my now self-recognised stupidity I decided to trust Rod and started to go down…. I think it must have been less than 30 metres downhill when I was already down to my knees and could not take a step without having both hand on the snow… and Rod was happily prancing down the 50o slope.

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I was somewhat okay so long as there was knee deep snow, it gave me a false sense of security, but I was not a happy bunny when the snow was so hard one had to kick the snow with the shoes to make a dent to put your feet into. I tried to disguise my impending panic with joking and laughing, but I could not remove from my head the stupidity of my situation. I was not that afraid of falling, I was afraid of mentally blocking and being unable of taking a further step. And realising that there was no other way out of there but going down the slope… … … whether I liked it or not. Somehow I managed to control my fear for most of the way down, except for a bit where the snow was so hard only the very tip of the shoes could get into, and nowhere to put your finger into… no way Jose I was going through THAT!! Back the other way it was, through the very deep snow… Quite a while later we finally reached the bottom… and I felt like kissing the snow!! Hahaha!! I felt adrenaline rushed, but exhilarated, and happy that I had managed to actually go down that slope… There is no way I would do it again, but I was happy I did it.

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The last part of the slope from the bottom:

In any case, we had reached Penguin River, and true to its name, there were Penguins around, loads of them!

It was  a delightful stroll to station after that, dotted around with wonderful examples of the South Georgia wildlife!!

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Amidst Penguin River basin, there is this outcrop, I fancy this must be the rock of “The Leopard Seal King”:

Penguins seem to like queing as much as humans, without apparent reason…

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Now a few piccies for all you Penguin and Seal lovers out there (remember I’m a fish guy!!)

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The rare chinstrap penguin:

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“My name is Strap, Chin Strap”

Now, lets play “Spot the seal” … if you lose you get your leg bitten!!!

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I told you they have teeth!!!

Thou, okay, I’ll admit it, even I go a bit awwwwww with these ones:

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Who said that dinasaurs had gone extinct?? That’s a full size snow spade bigger than my head… Terrifying if you ask me!!

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Lovely pintails… now off to munch on some seal carcasse…

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Yup, there are seagull even down here…

A few pictures to remind us of South Georgia’s past, and “No, those round things are not stones”.

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And the SPECTACULAR return home:

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Wednesday, 31st of July, 2013: King Edward point

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It’s been 10 days since my last update. Progress with work has been slow, but we’re getting there. I’ve got six jellyfish traps and four bubble traps.

And I came up with a pulley system suspended between buoys and the shore to be able to deploy traps offshore. One day I tested whether the pulley system would actually work… I think the guys in the Pharos were having a good laugh out of seeing me throwing buoys and ropes off the pier, fighting the wind, and trying to retrieve them form the shore… I must admit it wasn’t my most glorious moment. At one point I was running back into the boathouse looking at the floor to make sure I didn’t step onto some icesheet, when I heard the spookiest noise ever… it was this guttural “grruuunnfff” combined with a blubbery slurp… I looked up and my heart nearly popped out of my chest.

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I was running straight onto an elephant seal, and intimidated by my unphased run, was now standing as tall as possible (and that was pretty tall… ) while backing up towards the sea and making noises to scare me off… The adrenaline rush left me laughing nervously for the next 20 minutes… Mental note: “Look where you put your feet AND where you are heading to!!!”.

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Anyhow, the pulley system worked… kinda. So I decided to go ahead and deploy a few buoys and see what happens. Monday was a lovely sunny day, so Ella and Hazel help me out and we were finally able to deploy two of these buoys (one about 30m offshore, and the other about 50m offshore), which thanks to the kelp forest proved to be a more difficult and complicated task than I had envisaged.

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But on the other hand, the pulley system worked a treat, and monday I was able to deploy two traps. And yesterday it was 6 traps. Thanks Tony for the wonderful pics!!!

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The traps are working very well, they traps lots of things and some get pretty full. But as of yet, not a fish larvae in sight… I was starting to feel a bit disheartened by the lack of larvae… how am I gonna get enough larvae if I can’t catch a single one? Sue had caught 17 larvae in the plankton trawl in the middle of the bay on Tuesday night, so there are some out there… I know I’ll have to try many more times before I even start thinking negatively… but, will the larvae even be so close to shore? and in such shallow waters? And then, while going through the records of last year’s trawls, Sue showed me that on September 2nd last year they caught over 700 larvae in the same trawl exercise. I then remembered that I wasn’t expecting to catch anything until at least early/mid August. So there is hope!!! Now the plans are to deploy some of the jellyfish traps in deeper waters off the other side of the Pharos while it is moored on the pier and keep deploying the traps from the pulley systems in front of the station.

On the social level, life at KEP has been jam-packed with activities. On a couple of afternoons base-commander Rod taught us how to use crampons and ice-axes, and how to stop yourself if you’re sliding down an icy slope towards a cliff… I have also attended Doc Hazel’s Medschool and learned how to put suture stiches!! I hope I will not be put into such a situation where either knowledge is needed…

Last Tuesday Sue organised a fantastic Quiz with the Pharos crew!! I was actually able to respond some of the questions!!! For once I felt useful on a quiz! Lots of questions about science, cooking, and geography… Loved it!! Though I managed to get a Eurovision question wrong…. Hahaha! Our team ended up second!! I then stayed up an the bar with some of the lads, and after a few beers I was showed the other side of “rocking” Pharos… A great night was had!!

On Friday night we had a dart completion against the staff at BAS Halley Station, which was great fun again! Commentators Paula and Joe made a great job at making us laugh with every throw. And on Paula’s P Saturday, after some lovely Paula’s Personalised Peppery Pizzas, I got everyone (or nearly) on the Prancefloor for some Practice-salsa moves. It was a good laugh, and I think people enjoyed it. Tomorrow’s is Paula’s departure party and I’m gutted to see her leave. She’s been an absolute star at making me feel at home here since day one. The whole “big brother house feeling” is becoming even more realistic…

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In the meantime I will leave you with a few pics of random things:

The view from walk to “the office” and me hard at work:

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A saturday afternoon in Grytviken, the old whaling station. Plus a pic of a flock of South Georgia Pintails… incredibly cute but carnivorous!!!!!

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We had a massive snowfall one day, which made everything (rubbish included) look beautiful. It also woke up the child in me…

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And a bit of drama on Paula’s P’day after she got her hair cut and her favorite wine glass got smashed… 😦 At least now she wont have the dilema of whether to take it with her or not….

Monday 22nd July, King Edward Point.

It’s been a week since I arrived, and what a week it has been. I am still grinning around non-stop and have caught a reputation of being “bubbly”…. Hahaha! No wonder with the life I am living here… Where to start? Well, I constructed two template fishlarvae traps: “bubble trap” and “jellyfish trap”

Jellyfish trap:

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And bubble trap!!

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I deployed them on Thursday night from the pier to test them and see how they behaved in the water and whether they survived the night. They floated nicely on the icy sea surface and were very bright indeed! I couldn’t stop watching them in the water, they were even pretty, glowing in the transparent sea with bits of ice floating around… and then things were darting around them! Excellent! The light bait was working… for something at least. Now they only needed to go INTO the trap.

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And they did!! The next day, I went to fetch the traps. Thankfully they were still there, still floating, still alight, and full of marine critters: gammarids, copepods, the odd isopod…. But no fish larvae..

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And one of the curious expectators around the event…

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Oh well, I was delighted that the traps actually trapped things. Now it’s just a case of making many traps and deploying them in as many places as possible to see if I can catch those little elusive dragons. So today I have made another five jellyfish traps that will be ready for deployment tomorrow eve. Nik’s attack on the fish larvae is about to start! Hahaha!

In terms of my free time and daily life at base, I tested my skis on the flat around base a couple of times. I found it hard initially but later on got the jazz of it. It’s a weird move, like moonwalking… and it hits some weird muscles, which are very much sore now. This weekend was blue skies and sunshine ALL weekend. Unbelievable weather, not even jealous of the UK heat wave. So Saturday I got over my achy legs and went skiing at the other side of the cove with Dan.

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Four hours cross-country and went up some hills and I discovered that I LOVE going up hills with the skis! Its amazing! They have these “high heels” that make going up the mountain like going up the stairs. Then it was going down which took me some time to remember how to turn. I think I have skied one day since I was 15. The scenery was once again incredible, the mountains, the frozen lakes, the blue skies.

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Saturday night is formal night here at the station with a three course meal! So I dressed up, tie and all! It started with a few drinks at the bar (including South Georgia brewed ale!) and then a delicious candle-lit dinner with one of my favourites for main: butternut squash risotto! The next few hours were spent getting to know everybody a bit more.

I started Sunday with my pancake ritual, and judging by the interest in them, I can proceed to make more next week (and perhaps put on some Sunday morning music). Hehe! And then by 10:30, I brave it off again, and set off skiing with Jo, Rod, Hazel and Ella, this time towards Maiviken. Once past Grytviken, we went uphill towards Deadman. Nothing prepared for what I was about to experience. After about one hour, we hit the top and I literally lost my breath…. It was unbelievable. The scenery was just impeccable; everything white, the different ranges of mountains, the valleys, the ski had several tones of light grey, pink and purple and the sea was reflecting it all… We had to stop for a good while to take it all in.

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Then, off we went downhill into that untouched snow. Some decided to return midway, but Hazel and I wanted more, so we carried on all the way to the Maiviken refuge to have a cuppa.

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By the time we came back around 4pm I was knackered, but good knackered.

Though I’m excited about the progress with work this week, I can’t wait for the next weekend to continue exploring this frozen paradise.