As we approached Neumayer (and nearby Lyell) glaciers, we realised that the charts indicated we were navigating on land. The glacier front was still over a mile away, but were already several miles “inland” according to the charts made in 2001.
What an exciting week!! I’ve have finally started catching fish larvae; I have set up the aquarium and its up and running; I now have fish larvae happily swimming around in mesh baskets in the aquarium and some have been alive now for a few days; which has all boosted my morale. This is grand!! This is absolutely grand!! Once again, everyone said that the fish larvae would die within hours.
Well, perhaps they haven’t been keeping fish in aquariums and ponds since they were 3. I knew one day my oddities would be useful for something 🙂 Hahaha!
My little hand-woven baskets to keep each day’s catch separate from the rest.
The only problem now is that my departure date is in two weeks’ time… Now I have to make some difficult decisions about what am I going to do: I am eager to go back home see my loved ones, I miss my people, but there may be enough funds in the project to extend my time here a few weeks… and I am now so close to at least having a go at what I came to do here; plus seeing the Antarctic spring would be a great experience: I may even get to see elephant seal bull fights and pups… everyone is talking about them here. I will have to discuss this with the rest of my work colleagues, but before I even suggest it I want to make sure there is a realistic chance of the experiment actually working. I need to make sure I can keep larvae alive for a reasonable period of time; and although I have caught larvae of three different species of fish and they will all be included in the work, I still have not captured the main target species: mackerel icefish (Champsocephalus gunnari). Two points that I need to sort out before a decision is made.
As a little pressie to myself, last Thursday I joined the rest of the staff on a trip to service all the huts on the shores of West Cumberland Bay. I had been working till very late for a few days and was originally going to stay on base weaving aquarium baskets, but decided to take the mesh and thread with me and weave on board watching the incredible scenery. It was a once in a lifetime opportunity and I couldn’t miss it. It was a beautiful blue sky day with no wind, just perfect for a boat trip.
Spectacular photos courtesy of Rod Strachan and Hazel Woodland:
We first visited Harpon Hut, and it was so cute! It was a tiny little wooden hut, made out of wooden scraps, painted in all colours and with little windows overlooking the breath-taking view over the bay. Very quaint. (Photos courtesy of Rod Strachan and Hazel Wood)
Next was Carlita Bay Hut, and that was something else. That was luxury!! It was shocking, in the middle of nowhere there was this … house… with tall ceilings, real bunkbeds, and kitchentop kitchen tops. It was a real contrast to the other huts I had seen so far. (Photos courtesy of Rod Strachan and Hazel Woodland)
After servicing Carlita, we decided to have a look at Neumayer glacier just around the corner according to the map. But after we turned the corner, Neumayer glacier was not for several miles into the bay.
It was a real shock to look at the boat’s GPS showing the edge of the glacier (mapped in 2001) and us: 4 miles INLAND. I have never felt a more powerful message of climate change. True, one is constantly hearing about it, about all these freak storms and draughts, and melting polar icecaps, predicted sea level rises or shortening of icefish larval stages, but I have never SEEN it first hand, so palpable… it was even intimidating.
The sadness I felt for that glacier was later multiplied when I remembered that has happened with dozens of glaciers around South Georgia, let alone around the world. On a more positive note, the glacier was awe-inspiring and I could have stared at it for hours. (Photos courtesy of Rod Strachan and Hazel Woodland)
On our way back through all the beautifully sculpted icebergs I spotted an old friend: Dear Old Sea Leopard was sunbathing on an iceberg, so we stopped and became papparazzis for a while.
Old Sea Leopard loved the attention and greeted us with a show of her not-so-pearly whites. (Photos courtesy of Rod Strachan and Hazel Woodland)
Unfortunately I have damaged my pocket camera and I have lost all the pics from the last week … which is a bit of a bugger. I still have a couple of more cameras, but not as versatile as my supposedly nik-proof compact, so the quality of the pics will not be as good from now on, unless I am lucky enough to be able to share the pictures of amazing photographers Rod Strachan and Hazel Woodland!!! Thanks a bunch!!!
This weekend the weather has been appalling, it has snowed a tonne, and the track to Grytviken is closed. So we are stuck on base. This Saturday it was Sue’s turn to cook, and I’ve learned that when Sue’s cooking, expect something good. But this Saturday she excelled herself. She summoned all of us at the bar at 7pm, properly attired to go on holiday – Mysterious – I felt celebratory so I put on a tank top, sunglasses and had a bit of an image change.
Sue turned up dressed as an airhostess, gave us our boarding pass for KEP Airways flight
to Barbados, and Hazel and I got upgraded to first class!!! Yeay!!! She then invited us on-board… onto the corridor!!!
There were chairs at either side of the corridor and beautiful pictures of lovely places at either side: Haiti, Ibiza, Morocco, Ecuador, Stromboli… I wonder where she got the pictures from 😛 . We then sat on our chairs with peanut bags and had to listen to the safety speech. There were even safety lights on the floor.
Then there was dinner, which came on plates for the us doctors on first class, and in tin trays for the rest. Hahahaha!!
The whole effect was mindboggling! Quite a few times I caught myself thinking that I was truly on a plane… which is weird, because I hate flying. Unfortunately, there was a big massive storm in Barbados, so halfway there we had to turn back to South Georgia L. Despite the disappointment of missing our holiday in Barbados, an awesome evening was had. Sue, you are one incredible (air)hostess!!!
Finally this afternoon Sue, Dan, Rod and I we decided to brave the weather and make a snowman! Yeay!!! Only that, after a bit, we decided it wasn’t a man after all and we created: SNOWSUE!!!! Yippiyaiyay!!! It was hilarious!!! SnowSue ended up being quite voluptuous, but very pretty… you can watch a making-of SnowSue here: